7 Tips for Better Photos by Firelight

7 Tips for Better Photos by Firelight
Vincent Laforet

Cold weather and holidays bring the opportunity to shoot those enchanting firelight pictures, rich with amber hues that make every frame warm and inviting. But Vincent Laforet, Pulitzer Prize-winning photographer, filmmaker and author of “Visual Stories: Behind the Lens with Vincent Laforet,” warns it’s not as easy as rolling off a yule log. Here are his seven tips to get that shot of your family lit by hearth, menorah or blinking Christmas tree lights.

Get more stops. “The easiest way is to get a very bright lens,” said Mr. Laforet, meaning using a lens that lets in a lot of light, which is described by an “f” number. It’s counterintuitive, but the lower the number, the more light a lens lets in. He said to look for at least an f 2.0, but if you can afford it, get an f 1.2. The hitch is that the faster the lens the more it costs. To go from an f 1.8 50mm lens to an f 1.4 lens almost doubles the price. ”Those lenses tend to be more expensive, but they get some great images,” he said.

Stay still. A less expensive way to get more light on the camera’s sensor is to use a longer exposure, but even that requires special equipment. “The cheaper thing to do is to use a tripod and hope your subject stays still long enough for a lengthy exposure,” said Mr. Laforet. “The obvious problem is people, especially kids, tend to move during your photo and you are going to have lots of images with motion blur.” There is no magic formula for snapping subjects at the right second, he said, “other than asking them to stay still.”

Boost your ISO. It costs nothing to adjust your ISO setting, which increases the camera’s sensitivity to light, but typically lowers the quality of the image – you are likely to lose definition and get those grainy speckles called “noise.” That is changing with new technology, though. “The bodies that are coming out these days are breaking those rules more than ever,” Mr. Laforet said. Newer cameras can often take high quality shots at higher ISO settings. Test your different ISO settings in candlelight conditions before settling in for shots at the hearth, said Mr. Laforet, “You have to see how good is good enough to you.”

Trick the meter. Any camera on automatic is going to try to get the candle right, which leaves faces in the dark. One way to overcome the problem is to trick the meter. “Keep the light source out of the picture. If you keep the candle or tree outside of the frame you don’t have to balance for it.” To trick the meter focus on a person’s face, for instance, then press the shutter button half way, which on most cameras lock the settings. Now swing the camera back to include the candle in the photo and the exposure should be just about right.

Bounce your light. You can give the firelight a little boost using a strobe, but there are tricks you’ll need to keep the flat white light from overpowering your warm natural lighting. “A trick is to bounce your strobe behind you or to the side, so you shower the whole room with light, helping freeze your subject,” said Mr. Laforet. “That is the professional way to do it.” You will want to dial the power of your flash down, though, “As a general rule you’ll want to under power your strobe two-thirds of a stop to a stop and a third.” Experiment beforehand.

Fake it. “The real professional way of doing it is to recreate that natural light,” Mr. Laforet said. An advanced technique is to have a remote strobe coming from the same direction as the natural light. That probably means you will need a long strobe cord or a wireless trigger. You will also want to cover your strobe with a gel, a transparent colored material that will make the tint of the strobe light the color of the firelight. “You would likely cover the strobe with an orange gel.” Said Mr. Laforet. You can adjust the color later in Photoshop, but it requires some skill to tint the faces without turning the firelight deep red.

Overshoot. Shooting by firelight is an inexact science. Event the pros tend to spray and pray. “The one secret pros don’t like to share is, we are willing to take a lot of shots,” said Mr. Laforet. “It’s worth wasting a few dozen frames for that one golden moment.”
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How to Clean Up Pixels From a Blurred Picture

Even the most skilled photographers sometimes take a blurry picture. If your camera wasn't on the right settings when you took the picture or if your subject was moving, the resulting picture may be blurry or have some blurry spots. Photo editing software allows you to make a photo less blurry using several techniques. These techniques clean up the pixels. Pixel, short for picture element, is a single point of an image. Photo editing tools help bring the photo back into focus through rearranging the pixels.


How to Clean Up Pixels From a Blurred Picture


Instructions

1. Add the Unsharp mask plugin. Select "Filters" and then "Enhance" from the filters menu. Select "Unsharp Mask."

2. Reset the image to the default values. Increase the radius and the amount until the image becomes sharper. Don't increase the values more than you have to because they can add noise to the image, which looks blurry. It could also add visible artifacts to edges that were sharp.

3. Reduce blur in certain areas of the picture using the sharpen tool. Select the toolbox and then choose "Sharpen." This may also be called "Blur." Move the paintbrush over the blurry area of the photo. Use this tool sparingly as it can give your picture an unnatural look if the area you sharpen is in obvious contrast to the surrounding area.

4. Add the Neat Image plugin by selecting "Neat Image" from the filter menu. Go to "Recent Preset" and select "Advanced." Select "Remove." This gets rid of half of your photo's weaker noise.

5. Go to the filter menu and select "Smart Blur." This should make your photo appear warmer and make it easier to distinguish between the background and focal points.

6. Increase sharpness with the high pass tool. Go to the filter menu, choose "Other" and then select "High Pass." Set the radius to between 0.5 and 0.8 pixels.

7. Lower the opacity if the image is now too sharp. Go to the opacity option in the top right-hand corner and select a lower percentage.


Tips and Warning

You may find that one or all of these techniques reduces blurriness in your photo, but using them all or even a particular one may create an artificial look. Save each version before applying a new tool or apply them on different layers so that you can easily compare and select the best version.

The most popular photo editing program is Photoshop. If you have another program, the tools may have different names even though they perform generally the same task. Most of these plugins work with other programs.


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Learn to Take Better Photos with an Online Simulator

Learn to Take Better Photos with an Online Simulator

Getting to grips with digital photography can take years. PC Advisor introduces a clever online simulator that can help to demystify many camera controls.

Modern digital cameras make photography so simple that it seems as though you just need to press the shutter release to take a good photo. While that might be true for quick snaps, there are many situations in which a little photography knowledge goes a long way.

Exposure basics involve understanding the correlation between aperture size (the amount of light allowed in) and how long the shutter remains open. Manually controlling these involves setting the dial to aperture priority and adjusting the aperture size, or choosing shutter priority to dictate that element instead.

Elements such as focal length and ISO are less easily understood. That’s why we like CameraSim – an online simulator that lets you see the effects of each of these variables. Based around the controls of specific digital SLR cameras, you can tweak the settings and see the results instantly.
Getting started with CameraSim

Browse to CameraSim.com to try it out. iPad owners will soon be able to download a CameraSim app, too. You can immediately start fiddling with the camera settings; there’s no need to register.

In the screenshot shown below left, you see a scene exactly as it appears in a camera’s viewfinder – there’s a girl at the playground, holding a windwheel that’s spinning in the breeze. Click the shutter release and you’ll instantly see the effect of your exposure settings. Click ‘Return to Viewfinder’ to take another picture.
Use the zoom to vary perspective

CameraSim does a good job of showing the effect of distance and focal length on your photo. Since we can see this through the viewfinder without taking a picture, there’s no need to snap the shutter release to experiment with this.

Start with distance. As you move the slider, you can see how changing your distance from the camera to the subject changes the look of the scene. Notice that the girl and the playground equipment don’t change size at the same rate. Instead, as you get closer to the subject, the foreground gets bigger much more quickly than the more distant background. This is called the parallax effect, and you can take advantage of it to focus on the subject while reducing the emphasis on the background.

You can see this in the image below right, where we’ve got very close to the subject with a wide-angle lens to really put the subject front and centre.

Next, move the Focal Length slider. You’ll see the foreground and background growing larger or smaller in equal measure. This is a good rule to keep in mind: using your camera’s zoom control is not the same thing as using your feet to get closer or farther from the subject. They have noticeably different effects on the photo.

Capture motion with shutter speed

The simulator should be set to Shutter Priority to start with, which lets you change the shutter speed while the camera automatically adjusts the aperture setting to match. That’s great; leave it there for now. Over on the Shutter Speed slider, note the current setting (probably 1/125th second) and click ‘Snap photo’ to take the picture. You’ll see some blur in the pinwheel.

Now try again at 1/20th of a second. The pinwheel should be completely blurred. For comparison, slide the shutter speed all the way over to about 1/500th second. The pinwheel is now frozen in time.
Under- and overexposing photos

If you move the Shutter slider too far (slower than 1/13th second), the aperture reaches its physical limit (f/36) and can’t get any smaller. As a result, shutter speed settings below this point will generate an overexposed photo.

You can also underexpose the photo, but to do that you’ll need to lower the camera’s ISO. It’s currently set to ISO 200. Lower it to ISO 100, and then notice that once you hit a shutter speed of f/2.8, the aperture is open as wide as it can go. Since the camera can’t admit more light, any shutter speed faster than about 1/1,250th second generates a dark, underexposed photo.
Change depth of field with aperture

Most photographers love to gently blur the background to draw attention to the subject in the foreground. You do that by shooting with a relatively large aperture (which corresponds to a small f/ number). You can see this in action by changing the exposure mode to Aperture Priority and setting the Aperture to f/2.8. This is the lens’s largest aperture, and it should generate the least depth of field, while the background should be blurry. Indeed, you should find the photo looks like the view through the viewfinder.

Here’s a bit of digital SLR trivia for you: your camera leaves the camera lens set to its biggest aperture right up until you press the shutter release in order to let the most light into the viewfinder while you compose your photo. When you press the shutter release, it ‘stops down’ the lens to the desired setting. If you choose the biggest aperture, you won’t see a difference in the depth of field between the viewfinder and the exposed photo.

Now try the opposite extreme. Drag the Aperture slider over to f/36, which is the smallest aperture setting, and take the shot. You should have a sharp background.

If it instead becomes blurry, check your shutter speed. The camera had to automatically set a slow shutter speed to compensate for the tiny aperture, and since this simulator assumes you’re hand-holding the camera, it added blurriness due to camera shake. If you want to use a tripod, select the option to ‘Use a tripod’ at the bottom right. Alternatively, back off on the aperture until the shutter speed is 1/60 second. Try again and you’ll find a sharper background.
More to explore

There are other things you can do with CameraSim. For example, you could increase the ISO to add more light to the scene, and then re-try the f/36 scene to get a sharper background. That’ll work, but varying the ISO will also let you see the relative increase in digital noise that higher ISO settings contribute to photos.
And while you’re fooling around, click over to Manual control and experiment with altering both the aperture and shutter values. See how varying the lighting from Sunny to Dim Indoors affects exposure as well. Happy virtual shooting!

You don’t need a live web connection in order to experiment with virtual camera settings. CameraSim for the iPad is promised soon. Meanwhile, a less advanced tool known as SLR Camera Simulator provides three sample images with which you can manipulate and experiment with the effects of the shutter speed, aperture and ISO settings. You can also link the settings to show how the shutter and aperture settings affect one another.
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Refresh With Creative Photography

90 degrees can change everything
Digital Photography Snap

Bird smile
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Couch surfing
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Great creative shot
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Leaf color spectrum
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Mount Hua, China view from gondola lift
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Animal friends
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Adventure cat seeks adventure
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Looks like a nice place to sleep
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Underwater high five
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An owl in flight
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